Most of what's written about Salem is written for people visiting Salem. This is a newsletter for everyone else.
Sep 25, 2026
Five to seven miles on a full day, on brick and cobblestone. Here is the map in your head before you arrive.
Train, ferry, or bus, then walk. In October, a car is the thing most likely to ruin your day.
The car, the big backpack, the new shoes, and a few other things you will regret by noon.
Any day in October, in most places, with some limits on masks and props. Here is how it works.
Cool days, cold nights, and wind off the harbor. Here is what each week of October actually feels like.